The Evolution of Martine Rose: From Underground to Mainstream
Born in Croydon, South London, Martine Rose is a British-Jamaican fashion designer celebrated for her distinctive approach to menswear. Growing up immersed in 1990s rave culture, dancehall, and hip-hop, these influences continue to shape her unique aesthetic. Graduating in 2002 with a degree in fashion design, Martine never imagined she would reach the level of success she enjoys today. She didn’t want fame, but her love for design and creativity pushed her ahead.
In a fashion world often defined by trends and the legacy of established houses, Martine Rose stands as a symbol of originality. Bold in her experiments, she always challenges ideas of masculinity, identity, and culture, making her a leading voice in fashion.
In 2007, Martine launched her own menswear label. Known for her non-traditional runway shows, she has showcased collections in community centers, cul-de-sacs, and markets—places where fashion feels more like an expression of culture than just a commercial endeavor. She’s celebrated for her oversized silhouettes, DIY aesthetic, and gender-fluid pieces.
Martine Rose’s collections mix old-school styles with high fashion, changing usual menswear by creatively reworking suits and using bold presentations. Her first collections were small and personal, made with friends and quietly reflecting her experiences as a Black British woman exploring London's different cultures.
Martine’s Sister Who Had An Influence On Her Style
Breaking the Mold of Menswear
Martine Rose’s impact on fashion is undeniable, but what truly sets her apart is how she shifts the conversation around masculinity in fashion. Each collection challenges what men's clothing can be like in the future. In her designs, we see oversized suits, streetwear influences, and cropped pants—all reimagined for men or anyone who chooses to wear them. Rose plays with fluidity, blending traditionally "feminine" fabrics like velvet and satin with “masculine” cuts such as boxy blazers and wide-leg trousers. Her collections rarely rely on overtly “gendered” pieces, instead offering garments with items that can be worn by anyone, regardless of gender.
Her influence in fashion grew when she consulted on Balenciaga’s menswear under Demna Gvasalia, sharing her unique style with a global audience. Her ideas influenced the collections, adding a streetwear vibe and a new perspective on masculinity that aligned with Demna’s vision. Her ability to blend traditional menswear with subculture styles enabled Balenciaga to incorporate more cultural and gender-fluid elements.
collaborations: Merging Streetwear with Luxury
One of the key factors behind Martine Rose’s rise to prominence has been her collaborations. She skillfully blends luxury fashion with streetwear, which is uncommon today. These collaborations have made Rose a clear link between high fashion and streetwear—two styles she knows well and mixes easily.
In 2018, she teamed up with Nike to reinterpret their Monarch IV sneaker, often considered a “dad shoe,” infusing it with a bold, distorted aesthetic.
In 2022, Rose again worked with Nike Shox to create the MR4 Mule, blending nostalgic sportswear elements with a high-fashion twist. The collaboration sold out almost instantly.
Additionally, her 2023 collaboration with Clarks Originals reimagined the iconic Wallabee shoe, featuring exaggerated square-toe shapes and chunky soles, giving a bold twist to a classic British footwear style.
Final Thoughts
As the fashion industry continues to evolve, one thing is clear: Martine Rose will remain at the forefront of pushing boundaries—whether through her bold designs, unconventional presentations, or innovative collaborations. She is an artist unafraid to challenge expectations. For that reason, I will continue to support her and her brand, treating it with the same reverence as Prada, Balenciaga, and Louis Vuitton in this industry.
We’ve been led to believe that in order to "make it" as a designer, you have to work at a major fashion house (think Prada, Balenciaga, Louis Vuitton, etc.). But the reality is, these houses aren't always welcoming to women, particularly women of color. If you've been following me for the past few years, you know I've always rooted for Martine Rose and Grace Bonner to take the reins as Creative Directors at a major fashion house.
Statistics show that 60% of Creative Directors at major fashion houses are men, while only 30% are women. So my question is: should we keep pushing to support and force a system that doesn't seem ready to recognize Martine's greatness, when the world (myself included) already sees it?
